Luana Coonen Jewelry

Home: Born & Raised in Hawaii

behind the scenesLuana CoonenComment

Sometimes I forget I'm from paradise....

I've heard many friends and colleagues complain about dreading their annual trip home for the holidays: dragging their feet back home to the bitter cold east cost, sitting through dramatic family dinners, or some other variation of dreary situations.

I feel very luck that home represents none of this to me. I cherish my time with my wonderful, strange and alternative family, in the always soul-nurturing island life back in Hawaii.

I was born on the Big Island, and just a few years later, we relocated to Maui, where my father built us a home to suite the whole family. Nestled on a remote gulch, the property overlooks lush green views, a babbling stream, and just a nip of an ocean view.  Our family planted the property with a macadamia nut orchard, garden beds & edible landscaping, a large variety of tropical fruit, garnished along the way with several varieties of flowering orchids and bromeliads. I'm happy to still call this property home. 

 view from the house. oh yes, and the rainforest calls for frequent rainbows. 

view from the house. oh yes, and the rainforest calls for frequent rainbows. 

Every year I take some time off after a busy holiday season to recharge my batteries and get some contemplative time in near the Pacific. It is 360˙ beautiful. From our family property, the views everywhere you look, to the love my friends and family show, this place is brimming full. 

This season, I had a particularly nourishing trip home, as I decided to adventure and get some well-needed time to myself on long hikes and and a variety of trails around the island (hiking is one of my favorite pastimes). I dove head-first into the wonder which is Maui, and wow, I forgot how wonderful it is....

 New Years Eve on the beach, as per tradition

New Years Eve on the beach, as per tradition

 views from the waikamoi ridge 

views from the waikamoi ridge 

 the super secret swimming spot 

the super secret swimming spot 

These trips home a feed my art practice, reminding me of why I have such a strong connection with nature. From the green, lush rain-forest where I spend my days, long afternoons spent in the kitchen fiddling with things from the garden, to wandering around our yard filled with interested flowers, tropical fruits and permaculture tidbits planted by me and my family, it's no wonder I've always got nature on my brain.... 

 jackson chameleon finds, making rose water and bowlfuls of lilikoi 

jackson chameleon finds, making rose water and bowlfuls of lilikoi 

I love home and it loves me back.... 

 last views from the airport.... 

last views from the airport.... 

The Jasmine Ring

Luana CoonenComment

One of my favorite parts of being a jeweler is becoming part of a couples romantic story. We often know about an engagement before the bride-to-be does! (Which makes for a lot of tight-lipped policies in our community!) 
This was one of the most magical couples I've worked with, you can almost see the love buzzing around them! He approached me with:
    "My love for her is beyond anything I ever could imagine to experience and since we're not so traditional in the big diamond ring sort of way I got inspired to ask you since I love your artistry and care in your pieces"

After discussing a few ideas, we knew wings would be a main component of the design. 

 Inspiration 

Inspiration 

I chose dragonfly wings, as that seemed best suited for her personality.

Deciding that each side of the wing would represent each person in this relationship, I 'inverted' one side of the wing, making one 'upright' and the other 'upside-down'. This represents how two difference parts come together to create a symbiotic fit in the middle. 

 Freshly hand-sawed dragonfly desing 

Freshly hand-sawed dragonfly desing 

 We break a few saw-blades here and there

We break a few saw-blades here and there

I hand-fabricated this ring, which means the wings were sawed out with my trusty jewelers-saw, my favorite tool for creating delicate & graceful lines. 

Where the wings come together in the center represents what is created between two people- the spark, the love, the synergy. This is represented with 18k yellow gold and five harmony diamonds- where the love and magic happens. 

 Trying things on for size

Trying things on for size

The ring fits comfortably for her active lifestyle, and reflects her values as well- made with all 100% recycled gold, silver, and reclaimed diamonds, breathing new life into these loved materials. 

 Checking out the finished product

Checking out the finished product

 The finished product is a dreamy, unique one-of-a-kind ring. And of course, she said yes!   Winged Engagement Ring: Sterling Silver, 18k Yellow Gold, 5 Harmony Diamonds

The finished product is a dreamy, unique one-of-a-kind ring. And of course, she said yes! 

Winged Engagement Ring: Sterling Silver, 18k Yellow Gold, 5 Harmony Diamonds

Esqueleto Spotlight

Spotlight, behind the scenesLuana CoonenComment

Right across the Bay from San Francisco, there lies a treasure for the jewelry enthusiasts... Esqueleto in the cozy 'Temescal Alleys' in North Oakland. The store has a lovely curated selection of talented designers, creating a chic, soft spoken desert theme. Brimming with geodes, fossils, and strong pieces from jewelry designers across the globe, this store has too much good stuff. I find they have a knack for curating distinct & different designers, leaving me desiring many pieces from the display cases... 

 Enjoying my time with the great staff at Esqueleto

Enjoying my time with the great staff at Esqueleto

One of my favorite events is my annual trunk show held in their Oakland location. The staff is laid-back, easy to work with, and always a really fun to spend time with. I enjoy this yearly event to check in with Esqueleto's customers and my collectors, and seeing many old friends. I often leave the weekend with a full to-do list of custom orders and my head brimming with ideas for new designs my customers have mentioned they'd love to see!  

 Luana Coonen Jewelry Trunk Show 2015

Luana Coonen Jewelry Trunk Show 2015

Esqueleto is run buy the well-know jeweler Lauren Wolf, a woman of many talents, including running her stores (LA and Oakland) and producing her own jewelry line. Yet, from my first-hand experience, Lauren is a bit of a wonder woman, always calm and at ease, as you can tell immediately when walking into the welcoming environment of their Oakland store. They often do monthly events, including art shows and participating in First Friday, contributing to the lively scene in the Temescal Alleys. Next time your in the area, check it out, it will be well worth it, I swear. 

Enjoy Esqueleto's Artist Spotlight: Luana Coonen from a while back!  

SF Chronicle Feature

pressLuana CoonenComment

Thank you to the SF Chronicle for the feature in Island Style Section October 18th, 2015. Below is a copy of the full article. 


luana coonen locket

WISH LIST

“NATURE SPEAKS TO DESIGNER”

By Leilani Marie Labong

Bay Area-educated jeweler finds inspiration in specimens that have fallen to the ground

 Luana Coonen uses a saw to cut designs into a piece of silver, seen in close-up below, in her San Francisco workshop. Photos by Russell Yip / The Chronicle

Luana Coonen uses a saw to cut designs into a piece of silver, seen in close-up below, in her San Francisco workshop. Photos by Russell Yip / The Chronicle

As a young child growing up in Hawaii, jewelry maker Luana Coonen thought that everyone lived amid rich tropical greenery (her family home on the Big Island abutted a dense ohia forest) and could also recite the names of native plants on cue (the influence of her late mother, a botanist).

“All of this was just normal for my sister and me,” says Coonen, 33. “Our backyard forest was a playground. We’d nose around in the greenhouse all the time. On walks, my mother “would ID plants for us. Knowing nature was just second nature.”

Such lush and dewy botanical immersion raises the question: Is Coonen’s calling as a jewelry maker who encases the likes of katydid wings, coral tentacles and dried leaf skeletons within artistic compositions of metal and acrylic the result of nature or nurture? Even if she had grown up in a concrete jungle learning the names of, say, cars and architecture instead of flora and fauna, would her affinity for nature have emerged in her pursuits anyway?

These musings are inconsequential except to say that nature’s impact resonates deeply. When Coonen moved to the Bay Area in 2000 to attend the California College of the Arts, with aspirations of becoming a graphic designer, it took no more than 30 minutes in a dark classroom lit by one enormous computer screen for her to re-evaluate this technology-driven study.

“I wanted something that felt more natural,” says the Mission resident, who sustains big-city living with weekend rambles through Oakland’s Huckleberry Botanic Regional Preserve or easygoing paddleboarding sessions on placid lake waters (“I’m terrified of the ocean,” she says).

“I started experimenting with my course load, and in my first metal arts class, I discovered that I could almost complete the sentence of the instructor.” She graduated from CCA with a metalsmithing degree in 2004 and now teaches jewelry-making workshops at the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts and the Richmond Art Center.

In Coonen’s downtown San Francisco studio, display cases “exhibit her nature-inspired work. As a gesture of hospitality, she flips the switch on an electric kettle before pointing out a few significant pieces: A cuff with a gothic silver outline of wings is filled in with preserved scarab-beetle airfoils. A veiny, flesh-colored rose petal adds a macabre, human-tissue-like element to a silver locket. Lacy dried citrus leaves compose hoop earrings.

Coonen excitedly approaches stacked plastic bins teeming with nature specimens that she’s either stumbled upon during her East Bay hikes or while wandering the family homestead on Maui’s north shore, where she spends part of the year. These containers are filled with everything from shards of robins’ eggs to silvery Hawaiian sage leaves to empty monarch butterfly chrysalises. Capturing them all in some poetic configuration of metal and acrylic would mean tens of thousands of pieces, were it not for Coonen’s artistic fortitude.

“Sometimes I’ll know the shape I want to create, but need to wait for just the right nature sample, or I’ll have a beautiful piece of nature that I need some time to figure out how to frame. But I never force the process,” says Coonen, who is adamant about “only collecting specimens that have fallen to the ground — no living insects or plants are ever harmed in the making of her jewelry.

By now, the kettle is furiously steaming and shuts off automatically. Coonen makes no move to fill the waiting mugs. She is in full swing, waxing rhapsodic about her craft. Sometimes she seems humbled to find the creative process so intuitive.

“I feel very lucky that my hands create exactly what I see in my head,” she says. She’s incredibly astute about her inspiration, even correlating her work to the way nature is constricted in urban areas — planted medians surrounded by blacktop, for example, or sidewalk trees confined within concrete. Her pieces, which sell locally at Gallery of Jewels and Ver Unica, have been featured in the New York Times Magazine and Women’s Wear Daily. Her necklaces have made big-screen cameos in Jennifer Aniston’s “The Switch” and “The Adjustment Bureau” starring Emily Blunt. With such colorful feathers in her cap, Coonen comes off quite self-assured. She flashes a dimpled and disarming grin.

“My creativity is limitless,” she says.”